In our opinion, climbing Toubkal is a fantastic entry-level mountain for anyone looking to take on their first international climb.

The mountain is 4,167 m high, meaning you have to consider and deal with altitude, although it’s not so high that it should cause too many issues. The tracks to the summit are safe, and no technical skills are needed to summit. But what about those of you reading who want to take the climb to the next level?

In winter, the Atlas Mountains completely change. Firstly, the temperature drops on average (at the summit) from 20 degrees to -15 degrees. Visually, it looks like a different world, primarily due to the snow. You can see from the images comparing summer to winter how the terrain changes.

Climbing Toubkal in winter is a fantastic opportunity to learn alpine skills in a safe environment. You’ll need to learn about wearing crampons, potentially using an ice axe, and if conditions are tough, you might even need to be roped up for the trek. We will explain these skills below.

The summer climbing conditions officially end at the start of October. This is when temperatures begin to drop, and snow builds up over the next two months. One of the Legend team will always guide the trip, but as culture and building a great team are central to our ethos, we also bring local Berbers into our team. One of the team members is Hamid Oumezdou, winner of World Guide of the Year and overall just an amazing guy. Here is what he had to say:

We begin our winter ascents in December and January, mainly to guarantee snow cover and to evade some of the worst weather that can be seen at the start of the winter season.

As you begin the climb in Imlil, you should expect temperatures between 5-15 degrees. Once you reach the refuge (where you sleep), the temperatures are usually just below freezing. Finally, up on the summit, you should be prepared for -10 degrees.

Snowfall is pretty much guaranteed between December and February (hence why these are our climbing months).

There is one thing you need to be ready for: the wind. After the refuge, you can experience some ferocious winds between 30-50 km/h. The summit is quite exposed, hence the high winds, so you need to be ready for it to feel colder than expected and carry some good gear, which we will explain here.

Firstly, we use Toubkal as our team’s first step into using this specialist gear. You don’t require any previous experience. This is because we teach you before and during the ascent how to use the specialist equipment.

Crampons: Crampons attach to the bottom of your trekking boots and are covered in different types of spikes. These spikes give you traction in the snow and minimise the chances of slipping. The main change for most people wearing them for the first time is that you have to change your walking style slightly. You can’t drag your feet, and you need to keep a gap between your legs so the crampons don’t catch each other or your trousers.

Ice Axe: You will potentially carry an ice axe for two functions:

1. Self-Arrest: If you fall and slide on the snow/ice at any point, you can use the axe to stop yourself by holding it with both hands and digging it into the snow as a brake.
2. Balance: In thicker snow, you can push the point of the axe into the snow and use it as a walking stick for balance.

Rope: If the snow level is high, there are sections towards the summit that can become exposed. For that reason, we may sometimes use a rope. The purpose is to minimise the likelihood of a fall. If the whole team is roped together, the weight of the group would stop anyone’s fall. We mainly use a figure-of-eight knot to attach people to the rope and will teach you how to do this on the trip.

The main route to the summit throughout the year is from Imlil up to the refuge. This track follows the valley and doesn’t change throughout the year. The route does change after the refuge. In summer, you tend to zigzag up, moving around the different boulders and rocks. But in winter, it is usually totally snow-covered, so you can go straight up! Even though the route is more direct because of the snow, it can often take a little longer to complete.

In summer, you trek up to a saddle between Toubkal and Toubkal Ouest; after this, you follow a scree track up towards the summit, avoiding the exposed edges. In winter, the track is a lot steeper and more exposed. If conditions are difficult, we recommend roping up together.

We then descend back to the same refuge for the night. You can descend all the way off the mountain, although this can be a tough long day.

Obviously, the biggest concern surrounding a winter climb is the weather conditions.

Avalanche Risk: Although there is a risk, it is very small, and it is our guide’s job to assess the terrain. Avalanches occur due to a layer of unstable snow breaking off, often because of fresh snowfall or a large change in temperature.

Cold: You have to be prepared for the cold with the appropriate clothing. The main concern is frostbite on toes and fingers. However, it is easy to control and make yourself comfortable with the correct clothing.

Storms: As mentioned above, you can experience tough winter weather, including high winds, storms, and snow. All of these can be managed with a good guide and team.

• Duffel Bag: Firstly, you need a good duffel bag that is ideally waterproof.
• Outer Shell: This is your waterproof layer. Make sure it is big enough to fit over all your layers. A waterproof layer is excellent as a wind barrier.
• Insulated Jacket: For us, this is the most important part of your kit. Ensure it has enough down for extreme cold and is suitable for temperatures down to -10 degrees. We also recommend getting one that is a little more hard-wearing, as they can tear easily.
• Mid Layer: This is for wearing in the refuge and as a layer for warmth before adding your big jacket. There are many choices for mid-layers; make sure it is comfortable and relatively thick.
• Base Layer: A thermal base layer would be the best choice. Also, bring a normal T-shirt to wear if you get too warm. Merino wool is our preference, as it doesn’t itch, is comfortable, and is incredibly warm.
• Headwear: Most heat is lost around your head and neck, so a good hat and cover are vital in cold conditions. A thick warm hat that covers your ears is recommended, and we suggest a buff to cover your neck. If the wind is poor, you can cover your whole face.
• Sunglasses: As you will be walking over snow and ice at altitude, sunglasses are vital to protect your eyes. We know many guides with seriously damaged eyes from not wearing protection. We recommend polarized lenses that have 100% UV protection. Also, try to get glasses that cover the sides of your eyes, which are great in windy conditions.
• Gloves: Insulated large gloves are vital. They should also be waterproof. We prefer fingered gloves, as they make our lives easier when guiding, although mitts usually offer more warmth. Ensure your gloves aren’t too tight, as it can minimise blood flow to your fingers. It is also a good idea to carry a pair of smaller gloves and some hand warmers.
• Footwear: You need boots compatible with crampons. You can either use B2-style boots, which fit B2 crampons, or special crampons that can fit any style of boot. The B2 style is more solid and less likely to come off, providing excellent purchase on steep ground. The one-type-fits-all crampons fit your normal walking boots, although they aren’t as secure/sturdy. We recommend warm socks and carrying some foot warmers.
• Sleeping Bag: The refuge can get very cold at night. Hopefully, they will be able to light a fire and warm the building up, but it is large! So make sure you have a warm sleeping bag that is comfortable down to -5 degrees.
• Head Torch: The days are shorter in winter, so you’ll need a head torch for the first section of the summit day. It is also good practice to carry one at all times in case of emergencies. Look for head torches with good battery life.
• Water Bottles: At altitude, you need to stay hydrated to try to avoid any acute mountain sickness. So make sure you bring good bottles with you. We recommend 2 x 1.5 litres. Camelbaks can be a great purchase but can break easily, so have water bottles as a backup. Both Camelbaks and water bottles can freeze, so for Camelbaks, make sure they are packed in your bag and have an insulating tube. You can also blow the water back into the bag so it doesn’t freeze inside the tube and block it. For water bottles, you can place them upside down in or on the side of your bag, as water freezes from the top, meaning you’ll still be able to drink from them.

As you can see, there are a few more things to consider when climbing Mount Toubkal in the winter, however, this is an incredible time of year to be in the Atlas Mountains and an expedition you’ll never forget!